Like many New Englanders, I ventured to Salem for the
first time on the week before Halloween, because that is a thing that you do
around here. That was also the last time I did that thing. And honestly, the
only thing I remember from that trip was how bad the traffic and parking was.
Ooooooh. Fast Ferry...
That’s why I recommend taking the ferry from Boston during
the Halloween off-season. I took my
little excursion from Long Warf to Salem on a sweltering summer day in mid-August. One
of the sites you are sure to see on your visit is freaks. People dressed as pirates,
witches, warlocks, demons and combinations of all four wander the streets as if they're in an Edgar Allan Poe story. Some are actually gainfully employed. For others; I guess it’s a lifestyle choice –
which is fine. Either way, great photo opportunities abound. Personally, I
prefer to take pictures of other weird shit that that I find...and the weather
was a bit warm for warlock wear.
If you do go, plan for a full day and set a couple hours
aside to visit the Peabody Essex Museum. The Peabody is considered one of the
oldest continuously operating museums in the United States and houses one of
the major collections of Asian art in the country. These pictures are from an
outdoor installation on the Crowninshield-Bentley Lawn by artist Patrick
Dougherty appropriately entitled Stickwork.
Minus all the witches and shit - Salem is a classic New
England seaside village with plenty of souvenir shops, whimsical galleries, lobster
shanties and multitudes of objet d'art. But let’s be honest – Salem is known
for the witch trials, and right behind the Salem Witch Trials Memorial is the
Burying Point. For dead people…
Fun with filters
I must admit, I did have an agenda on this day. I knew that
at the end of my journey a golden liquid reward would be waiting for me. Beer. Session
beer, to be exact. Notch Brewing had recently opened a tap room and brew house
along a canal off Derby Street downtown. The recently converted industrial
space features a great outdoor patio, soft gooey German pretzels, German Landjäger (a fancy Slim Jim) and
fresh quart cans to go. The place rules.
Also recommended if you go…
The Lobster Shanty. And when they say shanty, they mean it!
If you’re looking for a legit Lobster Roll, you’ll find it here. The best
seafood joints in New England are usually not on the water (where you pay for
the view, not the quality of food).
If you get into town early, eat breakfast with the locals
at The Ugly Mug Diner. They serve the best fresh ground coffee and the Mug offers
Bloody Marys and other boozy breakfast drinks.
For lunch, try the Gulu Gulu Café. It has a bit of European
/ Bohemian flair and they serve a pretty decent crepe and a nice meat and cheese
plate.
Bye Salem. Back to
Boston…