Bartlett Yard - street art, graffiti and murals in Roxbury.

Street art is not forever. It’s time on Earth is limited, unless it’s a piece of Banksy street art that someone slices out of a wall and sells for a million dollars.

The joy of discovering cool street art is knowing that the artwork is in the process of decay, it might even be evolving as additional layers of graffiti and stickers are applied to its surface over time. The mother load of Boston street art and graffiti has been discovered in Roxbury’s Bartlett Yard. Formerly an MBTA bus yard sitting on eight and a half acres right on Washington Street, the yard has been temporarily converted into an outdoor arts and community space.  A large portion of the space where abandoned buildings once laid bare has been converted into an outdoor museum of graffiti, street art and murals. Events have been held here, the neighborhood has come together to support it…wait, is this really Boston?

But like all good street art, it soon will fade away, then be crushed into dust and finally be replaced by development.

Eventually this piece of real estate will hold 313 units of market-rate and affordable housing. In all, 12 buildings will be built at the site to hold 22,153-square-feet of commercial space, 31,322-square-feet of retail space, 369,311-square-feet of residential space, 33,870-square-feet of “structured” parking, and 15,500-square-feet of public space. It will be called Bartlett Place, and you will not see things like this...

As it stands now, summer weeds are filling the cracks in the lot, luster is being lost, but there are are few events on the calendar ( Events Calendar ) including the Floorlords Present - Back to Kool Fashion Fest on August 24th. Demolition is said to be starting in November; time is quickly running out if you want to go check it. I don’t know exactly when the space is open to the public currently, the entrance gate was locked when I visited, so I shimmied under a fence to gain access.  If you do go, keep your wits about you or check the website for more details: http://bartlettevents.org/. 

Soon it will all be a memory, but will surely live on in Facebook and Reddit like a bad cat meme…

Filene's building being chomped by giant claw

I could sit and watch this giant mechanical claw-thing chomp away on the Fliene's building all day long.

At least we can now be assured that Downtown Crossing's most famous hole is going to be filled with something. Something big. The 1.3 million-square-foot plan will feature a glass residential tower with 500 units next to the 1912 landmark Burnham building with up to 231,000 square feet of retail. The project will preserve and renovate the historic building – home of the former Filene’s department store and Filene’s Basement – and add a new, 54-story skyscraper to the Hub skyline.

The original Filene’s building was completed in 1912 as a new flagship location for William Filene and Sons' department store. This was the last major project by legendary Chicago architect Daniel Burnham (White City) and his only work in Boston. By 1929 Filene’s expanded the flagship building, converting the whole block around Washington, Summer, Hawley and Franklin streets into one department store.

And here's the giant glass monstrosity that will cast it's shadow over Downtown Crossing....

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Beat the Heat in the Back Bay...

As a lifelong “Northerner” I am not going to complain about the heat – because, ya know, this…

I hope the current inferno that’s engulfed Boston doesn’t stop people from going out and enjoying the city, because a blast of hot air ain’t nothing compared to stepping in a deep puddle of frozen slush along Boylston Street in January. For those who are willing to go on a warm Boston walk-about, especially in and around the Back Bay, I offer you these tips to avoid the heat.

1. Pop into the Prudential Mall. I’ve sliced through the Back Bay neighborhood by means of this indoor shopping center dozens of times to avoid bad weather. Although…outside of their food court, I can’t remember buying anything here, ever. But if you know someone in the market for a Russian nesting doll in the shape of Wally the Green Monster, well…this is the place. The mall has a beautiful, well shaded courtyard where one can lie on the grass and gaze blissfully at the monolithic Prudential building - or lollygag inside on one of the many benches. Multiple entrances allow access to these cool halls – including Boylston Street and the Back Bay Station. The Transportation Building off Tremont near the Boston Common also has a large indoor public space with a Dunkin Donuts, Starbucks and a food court.

2. Hotels. After hours of schlepping, my legs and buttocks prefer the comforts of a leather chair over a sticky park bench. I’m a simple man with elegant tastes. I love taking mini-breaks in hotels to check my phone and internets or get away from the cacophony and heat on the streets. I never seem to get harassed, I make it look like I belong there or I’m waiting for someone very, very important. Occasionally a staffer will ask me if I need anything, I’ve even been offered a complimentary glass of wine. Don’t mind if I do. Some of these lobbies can be quite glamorous; the Park Plaza hotel offers a sprawling décor worthy of the Great Gatbsy, as does the Fairmont Copley Plaza. The Commonwealth Hotel has a little art gallery and the Boston Harbor Hotel has a fine map collection on display. Be adventurous and trespass a little!

3. Churches. While they may not be air conditioned, Jesus keeps these houses of the holy nice and cool for his flock (shhh…it’s the granite). Regardless of your affiliation with a greater power, Boston’s places of worship are beautiful examples of classic architecture and should be enjoyed by everyone – especially those with a little sun stroke. I don’t think I’ve ever seen the Trinity Church in Copley Square actually closed – just be courteous to those seeking another type of salvation.  

4. Coffee shops and cafes. If I’m going to pay $4 for an ice coffee, I’m going to sit in that café and enjoy the a.c. for as long as I want! You can find Dunkin' or Starbucks on your own, but here are my three favorite cafes in the Back Bay (all on Newbury St.). L'Aroma café has my favorite coffee, Pavement Coffeehouse is centrally located on Newbury between Hereford and Gloucester, and the Trident Café is stationed inside a great bookstore and is the best option for a legit sit down breakfast or lunch. Two big chain bookstores actually still exist in the Back Bay and both have cafes, cool air and plenty of cozy chairs. Borders is on Boylston and Barnes and Noble is in the Prudential Mall.

5. The Boston Public Library.  Many a lost soul has found their way to the BPL, or maybe they’re just here to poop. Regardless of whether it’s a steamy day or not, the Library is worthy of a visit for tourists and normals alike. Sure, there are plenty of those those old fashioned books everywhere, but the library has plenty to see on foot.  The building has a new side with nice air conditioning and an old side…with old fans.  Unfortunately, all the fun stuff is on the balmy side of the building. This wing (McKim Building) displays many of their ancient murals and statues which decorate the grand staircases and hallways that lead to antique manuscripts and rare maps. This side is also home to the BPL’s tranquil courtyard with a fountain and a little café. There are so many dark little nooks and crannies in this building, by the time you walk back outside, the temperature might actually be sufferable.  Stay cool ya'll....

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Modern Dance Along Boston's Waterfont

Sometimes you just need to put your hands in the air and dance like you just don’t care – and the couple in this video really does not care what you think. Music is a powerful thing, it can move your body in ways that you have no control over – a fist pump here, a booty shake there…dance, dance, dance!

Okay, time for some honesty here – I was not laughing with this couple I was laughing at them. There, I said it. That’s because I’m pretty much an ass. I’ve danced maybe three times in the last three years because I am an awkward Caucasian. When I hit the dance floor someone’s going to get a toe stomped or enjoy some elbow face – I’m a flailing maniac.  I would like to say that I don’t care what people think of me, but I’m just as shallow as the next guy. That’s why this couple kinda pissed me off. Who do they think they are - dancing to their own tune out in public like this?  Don’t they know that our society of conformity shuns this type of behavior – why can’t they dress like everyone else at this party? Where is your goddamn beard, Chuck Taylors, maxi dress or haphazardly made cutoffs?  Harumph I say!

So I laughed and I laughed and I took a video of them because I’m a big jerk, but deep down, even with all the beautiful people at this party – I was completely and utterly envious of them and their comprehensive disdain for societal norms…

What assholes.

Boston's Waterfront from Pier to Warf

There’s been a lot of jibber-jabber about Boston’s Waterfront and its growth from tween to awkward teenager recently. Not the waterfront where the Aquarium is, nor the waterfront where Castle Island is, or Charlestown, but on the waterfront where Fan Pier is. Now where did Fan Pier go, is that still a thing? 

Regardless of exactly where the new Waterfront is, I’m here to tell you what actually does exist on (not near) Boston’s Waterfront - from Columbus Park to the Harpoon Brewery. Columbus Park was in fact Boston’s first waterfront park when it opened in 1976 to help celebrate the Bicentennial. Prior to 1976, pretty much all of Boston’s waterfront was going through an identity crisis as the city transformed its warehouses and piers into condos and retails shops.  The old world shipping and trading industries that shaped Boston’s waterfront left the area convoluted and with limited access to the bay itself. It was in fact a dangerous place. In the early 1970’s residents grasped the revitalization possibilities - which provoked Boston bureaucrats to start spinning their wheels…very, very, slowly.

View of the Fan Pier area and Courthouse

Our tour begins at the Atlantic Sail Loft (80 Atlantic Ave). This well worn seafood joint sits atop the harbor and features a great little deck for cocktailing – no chairs or tables, just a place to hang out and enjoy the view and summer breeze. The food here is pretty basic – for a life altering seafood experience walk a couple blocks to the North End and find Neptune Oyster. An old standby, Joe’s Bar and Grill hovers on the sidelines of Columbus Park and has a titanic amount of outdoor seating. Columbus Park is really starting to mature and grow into itself; in my opinion it’s the nicest place to enjoy an outdoor bag-lunch or some take-out anywhere downtown. Across from the park sits Tia’s. Good ole Tia’s. Attached to the Marriott, Tia’s is a meeting ground for cubicle dwellers engaged in post-work mating rituals.

 Joe's Bar and Grill at Columbus Park

Going through or around the Marriott points to one of Boston’s most remarkable and visited attractions: the New England Aquarium. By the time this blog is posted, major renovations to the giant ocean tank should be complete – the largest one in the World at the time of its construction. I could happily spend half an afternoon here watching the Northern Fur Seals roll and tumble by. The rest of this area is tourist laden and home to many of the departing bay cruises and party boats. 

The next leg of what's called the Harborwalk can make the average wallet shiver in fear.  Home to Rowes Warf and the Boston Harbor Hotel, if you do happen to own a giant fucking mega yacht, dock it here next to Red Sox owner John Henry. But if you’re a free-loader like me, a better option might be to wander into the lobby at the BHH and enjoy their fine antique map collection of the New England coastline. Rowes Warf is also home to a floating stage with over 50 free nights of music and film. Film night is Friday, and Monday thru Thursday features themed music nights - for white people. Very white people. There’s a Rat Pack night and a Country night, but certainly not a Reggae or Latino night.  If you have even the slightest amount of soul in your body, you’ll probably end up having a good time laughing at the awkward white people trying to dance. I recommend the Thursday Blues Night - Racky Thomas has a couple gigs this summer…he’s a cool shit.

Intercontinental with Tea Party Museum in the background

Passing by the unpretentious James Hook Lobster Company, the walk along the channel leads to more high-end hotels with outdoor dining. With all the redevelopment in this area, this enduring lobster shanty looks incredibly out of place, even if it was re-built after a recent fire. Although, it’s still a fine option for a lobster roll quickie. The extravagant Intercontinental Hotel has contributed to the Waterfront by building a gracious little two-acre promenade – where blue-bloods sip bubbly with no worries in the world. Smith and Wollensky offers a steak experience in the same pleasant outdoor space. Crossing over the channel from Congress Street and walking past the Boston Tea Party Museum and the Children’s Museum (if you do have young kids, you pretty much have to visit) will lead you to Boston’s infamous crab shack.  The rustic Barking Crab and it’s menu has endured some criticism in recent years, but I ate here last week and didn’t die.  Regardless of the food quality, no one can take away the huge deck, outdoor bar, public boat docking and up close sky-line view. It’s a great place to start a downtown tour with out of town friends.

Adjacent to the Barking Crab sits the Federal Courthouse, summer home to Whitey Bulger. It also houses another seafood restaurant, the Daily Catch. Like the Crab, you can’t beat the view, but the food and the service can only be described as…meh. The hands down, best seafood dining experience on the Waterfront with a view is, of all places, Legal Seafoods. Well, Legal Harborside actually. It’s the chain’s 20,000 foot, three floor flagship property on Boston’s Waterfront. The first floor is considered casual dining, the third spotlights cocktails and small plates and the second floor is a panty dropper.  Sorry to use such vulgarities, but being unable to “close a deal” on a third date at this restaurant is completely unacceptable. The dining experience here is truly that outstanding. Legal’s shares a warf with Del Frisco’s (steak), Jerery Remy’s (sports bar) and 75 on Liberty Warf (overpriced) and all have waterfront seating.  My second pick for a date night would be Sam’s atop Louis Boston. I was expecting it to be a bit more pretentious, seeing that a wife-beater at Louis Boston sells for $175 (I’m sure it’s happened), but there’s usually a cool little crowd at Sam’s gazing thoughtfully at the passing ships and sailboats. If I was a swarthy Mediterranean man of considerable girth I’d bring my lovely, well-tanned date to Strega. If in search of a potential date, or maybe a late-night parking lot date, The Whiskey Priest has my blessing and possibly your salvation. I bring my parents to the No Name Restaurant, because nothing on the menu scares them.  I have no idea who goes to Anthony’s Pier Four.

  A small fishing community still exists in the area.

Along the Harborwalk and Waterfront man-made green spaces are popping up like weeds in a cracked parking lot. The Courthouse has created a nice little oasis in its back yard, Eastport Park is all greened up and well groomed, the new Innovation Center (a mixed use public space) just planted a bunch of birch trees and there’s a park big enough to play Frisbee and soccer right next to Strega’s. It’ll be interesting to see how the hulking and hovering Institute of Contemporary Art will acclimate to the changing landscape. I wish this museum had more ongoing exhibits and a larger in-house collection, but I have to give the ICA a lot of credit for their commitment to street artists - Barry McGee’s work will be showing until Sept. 2^nd.  In the summer months they have a First Friday event that makes for good mingling - with a DJ, cocktails and you guessed it…art.

Let’s wrap up this little tour and have a beer! Harpoon, Boston’s largest brewery, offers tours daily that start in their newly constructed beer hall and visitor center – I recommend their Hoppy Belgian Ale and a big salty pretzel.  Cheers!

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Google Map of the Waterfront

Just a walk in the park...

Battle of the Beat Down Beaches – Revere vs. Nantasket

In this tale of two beaches, one just a bit north of Boston and the other a little bit farther south, both locations share many of the same qualities. The most notable of those being that they have seen better days.  Revere Beach was in fact "the first to be set aside and governed by a public body for the enjoyment of the common people". In its heyday Revere Beach flaunted a 1400 foot pier with a dance hall, the Cyclone roller coaster, bowling alleys, roller skating rinks, a fun-house and a variety of rickety rides where death awaited. In Nantasket’s glory days the beach was home to Paragon Amusement Park, which survived the Blizzard of ‘78 but finally closed in 1984. At both locations, most of these attractions have been replaced by condominiums. Big ugly ones. Only a few remnants exist - an arcade in Revere and a carousel in Nantasket. Oh, and a place called Fascination on Nantasket which is actually a game that combines the “skills” of skee ball with the tedium of bingo – oh fun!  It is in no way a strip club.

One of the remaining structures on Nantasket - the old clock tower

There certainly are beaches closer to Boston, and beaches in town, but I chose these two because of their size and services. Both have plenty of parking options, changing rooms, showers and budgets to keep the beaches kinda clean and lifeguards paid. Revere Beach can be reached by the Blue Line and there are plenty of four hour on-street parking spots. Earlybirds at Nanatasket might be able to find one of the coveted free street spots – but there are plenty of lots, and they only fill up on the busiest of summer weekends ($10-$20).

   

Revere Beach - parts of its past still linger

There’s also quite a bit that sets these two beaches apart – and for me, the biggest is swimming. I have never ever, nor will I ever swim at Revere Beach. It’s four miles from Boston and surrounded by industry, refineries and a lot of dirty toxic shit. Granted, the entire beach has been re-sanded, the original pavilions restored and the boardwalk as a whole revitalized, but I just can’t get passed the location. We live in a dirty, filthy world.  The closest beach to Boston where I have plunged into the ocean and flopped around like a baby seal is Nantasket. This is actually one of five beaches in New England that I’ve surfed – okay, tried to surf. Fine – I suck at surfing.  But the point I’m getting at here is that if your goal is to get in the water and ride some waves (even if it’s just to body surf), Nantasket is the obvious choice. If the weather is mild there may not be any waves, and if there was a recent downpour always check beach conditions for high bacteria levels. If there's a storm out at sea making the ocean gods angry, Nantasket can make a person forget that they are about 45 minutes away from downtown Boston. This beach has one major downfall though, during high tide there is no beach. Only a few pockets of sand will survive as the tide pushes everyone against the rocks or up onto the boardwalk. It makes for an awkward afternoon – check the tide chart and conditions before planning a trip.

Nanatasket Beach - getting smooshed onto the rocks...

So why go to Revere Beach if swimming is not the best option? One of the answers is roast beef. Kelly’s has been slinging beef, fried seafood and lobster rolls along the shore since 1951. I can’t say I’m the biggest fan, nor is it an old family tradition or anything like that, but at least once a year I find myself snarfing down a Kelly’s roast beast sammy down by the seaside. And that’s part of the appeal to Revere Beach – if you find yourself with a craving and nothing to do on a nice sunny day, Revere Beach is only minutes away. It’s also good for a quick ice cream getaway – with Banana Boat and Kell’s being much revered.  Revere Beach is also world renowned for its famous people watching – trust me, you’ll get an eyeful!

   Car show in front of Joseph's Pizza on Nantasket

What these beaches lack, for the most part, is fine or decent dining (especially seafood) and late night entertainment (where you won’t get shanked).  There are some options, Barefoot Bobs on Nantasket has a nice little outdoor deck with a Tiki theme going on, and their margaritas always hit the spot. Both locations have multiple pizza options, a hotdog stand and Revere Beach even has a Chinese food shack. The C Note on Nantasket is known for its live entertainment - but it’s mostly dad-blues, open mic nights and DJ’s. Revere Beach has a plethora of ill-reputed dive bars, the entrance to the Shipwreck Lounge might actually be a wormhole that goes right to 1979. Hairy chests and gold chains still rue the day here. A few traditional Italian restaurants are scattered up and down the strip in Revere, but I’m not usually looking for pasta with gravy at the beach.

Overall – both beaches have their quirks but make for great day trips. Sometimes a trip to the beach to get silly can do wonders for the soul. I wouldn’t stay overnight, or even too late into the evening at either beach – unless you are a brave warrior looking for a true Boston adventure.


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Bike Blog - South Boston Shoreline

Distance - 4.78 miles one way, round trip about 10 miles

Time - 23:45 minutes one way / no stopping

Average Speed: 12.08 mph

Skill level: Wicked easy

Google map of route

This bike ride begins at Castle Island, breezes along the waterfront and beaches of South Boston and finishes at the entrance to Umass in Dorchester. The sidewalks are double wide most of the way, so riding close to the water and enjoying the view is an option. On really nice weekends there might be some congestion from walkers, joggers, dogs and extended families with their brood running amuck. When I cycled this route on a mid-week afternoon the only thing I really had to battle was a blustery wind. 

Several years ago this length of waterfront did not have a continuous track from end to end.  It’s now part of the extended Harborwalk, which has a cleared path around Columbia Point’s housing and the Umass Campus. Once you get past the beaches and some of the craziness that is Southie, it’s quite a peaceful ride - with some tucked away green spaces and unique views of the city skyline. This really is the only decent shoreline bike ride in Boston proper - the Waterfront area along downtown and Fan Pier is just not suited for biking.

Give yourself about an hour and a half for the complete ride if you plan on taking some photos, bringing the kids or exploring a little.  Sometimes I like to stroll parts of the coastline during low tide to see what kind of crazy crap comes drifting ashore. There’s a peaceful little oasis right behind the JFK Library with some picnic tables, lush grass and lots of shade trees. The area past the Umass entrance can be explored, where the Harborwalk officially ends, over to the Savin Hill / Malibu Beach area, but the route breaks up and traffic along Morrissey Blvd can be a pain in the ass.

The shady oasis behind the JFK Library

As you finish up your trip back on Castle Island, don’t forget to reward yourself at Sullivan’s. This take-out bayside shanty servers burgers, dogs and food from the sea, and is a place of pilgrimage for the locals. I guess there’s something special about chowing down on a lobster roll while gazing out at that dead crustacean’s recent home. You can’t beat the prices though – I bought a hot dog and fries for $3.80. There aren't any glamorous attractions along this waterfront though; no boardwalk with games, rides or fried dough…thankfully. If you’d like something a little more upscale than Sullivan’s, or maybe an adult beverage, try Local 149 at the corner of E. 6^th and P St. They’ve got a great beer list, and you know a pub is serious about their charcuterie when they plop a giant meat slicer right on the bar (this is the post Whitey Bulger era of Southie - no doubt).  And feel free to enjoy the beautiful beaches of Boston, I wouldn’t necessarily swim here...but there are plenty of people who dive right in!

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